Shoe



Dec. 25, 1945. A. MOSKOWITZ ET AL 2,391,437

SHOE

Filed Sept. 1, 1944 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG.3.

INVENTORS A TTORNEY Dec. 25, 1 945.

A. MOSKOWITZ ET AL SHOE Filed Sept. 1, 1944 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG.|4.

INVENTORS strip;

Patented Dec. 25, 1945 SHOE Abram Moskowitz and William S. Milius, St. Louis, Mo.

Application September 1, 1944, Serial No. 552,320

Claims.

This invention relates to shoes, and has particular reference to improvements in shoes of slip-lasted or envelope construction. The present application is a continuation-in-part of the application by Abram Moscowitz, filed June 14, 1944, Serial-No. 540,342.

The principal object of the present invention is achieved in the provision of an improved toe and counter construction for shoes. Other objects are to adapt the slip-lasted process of shoe making to the manufactur of closed back and closed toe shoes, to provide improved means for obtaining firm counter and toe parts in shoes. of this character, and in general, to provide improvements that enable all types and styles, including those which heretofore, for practical considerations, required other lasting methods, to be made by the slip-lasted process.

This process, as previously known and practiced, has not been widely or satisfactorily employed except in open toe and open back models,

or in shoes and slippers having flexible or semisoft toes and counters. Well recognized advantages of shoes embodying th slip-lasted construction reside in the economy of materials and the facility of manufacturing operations. They are extremely comfortable and have excellent wearing qualities.- The present invention extends the field of use of this highly desirable process, enabling the advantages thereof to be obtained in practically all types and styles of shoes.

These and other objects and advantages will appear from the following description of a shoe constructed in accordance with the teachings of our invention. In the drawings:

Fig. 1 illustrates the combined insole and countar-lining members;

Fig. 2 illustrates a tip-lining member;

Fig. 3 illustrates a binding, or mid-sole cover Fig. 4 illustrates an upper with attached tiplining and binding strip;

Fig. 5 illustrates the manner in which the parts shown in Figs. 1 and 4 are assembled and stitched together;

Fig. 6 shows the assembly of Fig. 5 with the addition of a front binding strip;

Fig. 7 illustrates one form of stiffening member;

Fig. 8 illustrates an alternate form of stifiening member;

Fig. 9 is a side view, partly in section, of a shoe assembly with heel and to stiifening members in place;

Fig. 10 shows the assembly of Fig. 9 as mounted on a last;

Fig. 11 is a transverse sectional view taken at I I--.-I I of Fig. 10, with the addition of a rind-sole member;

Fig. 12 is a plan view of the shoe bottom, with a. portion of the outer sole broken away;

Fig. 13 is a side view, partly in section, of a completed shoe, and

Fig. 14 is a transverse section taken at line I I-I4 of Fig. 13.

Referring now by characters of reference to the drawings illustrating a practical embodiment of the invention as to both the method and structure phases thereof, one of the early steps of the manufacturing process is attaching an inner sole member I, also referred to as a sole lining or a sock lining member, to a quarter lining or counter cover 2 to produce the lining assembly illustrated in Fig. 1. The member I desirably consists of an appropriately shaped piece of fabric or thin, pliable leather. The quarter lining 2 likewise may be cut from a piece of thin leather or fabric stock. The bottom margin of member 2 is turned outwardly and attached to the complementary margin of member I by a row of stitches 3, such operation being accomplished in a sewing machine of conventional type.

In Fig. 4 there is shown an upper, designated generally 4, which includes a toe or tip portion 5, vamp 6, and quarter 1, these parts being suitably united together as bylines of stitching. As will be understood the tip and vamp portions may be integrally formed. The tip is desirably made of two mating side sections shaped so that when joined at a longitudinal scam the resulting member is cupped in conformity with the toe of the last; To the preformed upper there is attached a tip lining member 8, illustrated per se in Fig. 2, the attachment being effected by a row of stitches 9 that extends across the upper in the region where the tip and vamp merge. It will be observed that the lower adjoining margins of the tip lining and upper are completely free of each other at this stage, and that a pocket-like space is created between these parts. The tip lining 8, like the tip outer ply, is preferably formed of two generally triangular pieces of lining fabric, stitched together along complementary edges in the formation of a longitudinal seam In. The described two part construction of the tip lining enables that member to be cupped so as to conform to the internal shape of the tip 5.

At this time there is also attached to the upper, by stitching I I, a binding strip or mid-sole cover strip I2, of fabric, leather, or plastic, the strip I2 extending around the back of the shoe and terminating forwardly in the shank regions.- The strip l 2 is preferably attached to the quarter portion of the upper with its outer or finished surface disposed inwardly to face the outer surface of the quarter portion.

In a subsequent operation the sub-assemblies of Figs. 1 and 4 are combined and stitched together by stitching I3 and I3" to produce the assembly illustrated in Fig. 5. The stitching I 8' connects the turned-down side margins of the insole, between the points designated Aand B, Fig. 5, to the adjoining margin of the upper. The stitching I8", extending forwardly of points A, connects the tip margin of the insole only to the tip lining 8. Thus, the lower margins of the tip and quarter portions of the upper are not at this stage attached to the insole I, so that access may be had into the space between the upper 4 and the lining members 2 and 8 through the openings at the lower margins thereof. As will appear, such openings are utilized for the insertion of stiffening members, and to accommodate turned-in flange portions of said stiffening members.

Although the tip lining 8 and the quarter liner 2 are herein shown and described as being individual members, separately installed, it is quite feasible to provide a complete or full lining member for the upper, and to stitch the bottom edges of the heel and toe portions of said full lining to the insole but not to the upper, as previously explained with respect to the individual liner parts 2 and 8.

A succeeding step in the method is the application and attachment of the forward binding strip I8 at the sides and around the front of the upper. The strip I3 is arranged on the upper in the manner described in connection with the. rear cover strip l2, that is, face to face, and the stitching I4 by which strip I3 is secured penetrates the upper only, and does not catch the tip lining 8. It will be apparent that strip I3 may be attached at the time and with the stitching I3 that unites the upper and the sock lining,

-thus eliminating one of the rows of stitches between points A and B. Another stitching opera tion at this stage of the process is the securement of the top edge of the quarter lining 2 to the quarter portion of the upper, a line of stitching designated I5, Fig. 9, serving this purpose.

The stitching together of the related parts as thus far described may be readily accomplished on a more or less conventional sewing machine, and of course, without having any of the parts mounted on a last. It will be understood that the upper and insole members, in fact all of the parts, are properly and accurately cut to accord with size standards, with due consideration given to the normal requirements for stitching allowance.

' Continuing with the description, means for stiffening the toe and heel portions of the upper are now embodied in the assembly of Fig. 6. A preferred type of stiffening means for the heel and the manner in which the same is incorporated in the upper assembly is illustrated and described in the co-pending application, Serial No. 540,342, previously referred to. are preferably employed in the shoe of the present invention. Briefly, such means comprises a firm, molded counter, indicated at I6 (Fig. 9), having an integral, in-turned bottom flange IT. This counter is coated on both sides with cement Similar means and then inserted into the pocket formed between the upper portion 1 and the counter liner 2, the flange I I of the counter underlying the sock lining or inner sole, and being anchored to the sole structure by suitable means later in the manufacturing process.

Amolded, pre-formed box toe member of the character illustrated in Fig. 8 and desi nated I8, may desirably be employed to give firmness to the toe structure of the shoe. The member I8 has a bottom flange I9, and may be formed of thin leather, or fabric suitably impregnated with a pyroxyline or other stiffening agent and molded to shape by processes known and employed in connection with the manufacturing of counters. Where the pre-formed box toe I8 is employed the member is suitably treated to render its surfaces adhesive, either by application thereto of adhesive, or of solvent where such is indicated by the character of the box toe material, and the member is then inserted into the pocket or space between upper portion 5 and tip liner 8, as appears in Fig. 9. It will be observed that the turned-in bottom flange extends beneath the marginal portion of the sock liner.

In lieu of the preformed box toe I8 there may be employed an initially flat piece of material of the general shape and character illustrated in Fig. 7 and designated I8. Such member is a piece of fabric which is impregnated with an appropriate plastic to give it the desired firmness. This kind of material is presently on the market and available to the trade. Like the pre-formed box toe It, the member I8 has a scived or feathered transverse rear edge 20. Member I8 is treated with a solvent, by steam or heat, temporarily to mull or soften it, and then inserted into the pocket formed between parts 5 and 8, wherein it is subsequently molded to desired shape as hereinafter described. The shoe body with the box toe member in place is now fitted onto a suitable last, designated I9, Fig. 10. Assuming that a stiffening element of the character shown in Fig. 7 is employed, the projecting marginal portions thereof are wiped inwardly against the sock'lining I to constitute a turned-in marginal flange corresponding to flange I9 of the preformed box toe I 8. In the latter method the box toe element is molded in situ over the toe portion of the last, and either the stiffening agent of that element, or a separately applied adhesive, is utilized surflcially to unite the toe portion 5 of the upper, and also the tip lining 8, if desired, to the stiffening element I8.

A third, highly practical method for effecting a firm toe structure, especially applicable to the presently described construction, is one which involves the elimination of a separate stiffener element such as members I8 or I8. Before the shoe structure at the stage illustrated in Fig. 6 is fitted to a last, the inner surfaces of the pocket formed by the upper portion 5 and tip liner 8 are coated with an appropriate stiffening agent in liquid state, for example, a cellulosic compound that becomes hard when dry, material for this purpose being presently known and available. The inner surfaces of the outer and liningplies are readily accessible at this stage of the assembly and uniform distribution of the stiffening substance may be obtained by brush or spray-gun application, the pocket formation serving to confine the liner becomes impregnated with the stiffening substance and performs the functions of the third or intermediate ply customarily provided for a like purpose, with attendant reduction of weight and thickness, desirable in certain types of shoes.

After the upper assembly has been properly fitted to a last the tip and counter portions are given any necessary treatment to effect a setting of the firming agent, and thereafter the intermediate and outer sole members and separate heel, if used, are attached in the manner generally employed for slip-lasted shoes. Briefly, this involves the application of a mid-sole or platform member 20' and the securement thereof by a suitable adhesive to sole lining I. The cover strips l2 and I3 are then turned and drawn tightly about the edge of the mid-sole, and their margins adhesively secured to the outer surface of that member, as appears in Fig. 12. When employed, a shank stiflener 2| is suitably attached to the intermediate sole, after which the outer sole 23 is applied and secured in place, preferably using an adhesive for this purpose, and subsequently the heel member 22 is attached.

The present invention has been illustrated and described with reference to a shoe construction which has been tried and proved to be highly practical and which realizes the purposes and advantages set forth in the preamble to this. description. Yet it is understood that certain changes in the methods herein proposed by way of example will also yield satisfactory results, and that all such variations as fairly come within the scope of the appended claims are intended to be included in the present application.

We claim:

1. In a shoe, an upper having a toe portion, a sole assembly including an inner sole, a lining member in the toe portion of said upper, said upper and said inner sole being stitched together along complementary side margins, and being relatively unstitched along complementary toe margins, said toe lining member and said inner sole being stitched together along complementary margins, stiffening means adhesively secured to the inner surface of the toe portion of said upper,

a binding strip having one side edge stitched to the lower edge of said upper, and its opposite edge adhesively secured to the sole assembly.

2. In a shoe, an upper having a toe portion, a

said upper and at its toe margin to said toe lining means, a toe stifiener element disposed between the said lining means and said upper, said element having a turned-in lower margin subjacent said inner sole, a binding strip secured at one side edge to said upper and at the opposite side edge to the sole assembly.

3. In a shoe, an upper having a toe portion, a sole assembly including an inner sole having a toe portion, lining means in the toe portion of said upper, stitching securing adjoining side margins of said upper and inner sole, stitching securing the top margin of said toe lining means to said upper, stitching securing adjoining mar-.

gins of said toe lining means and said inner sole, a toe stiffener element disposed between and adhesively secured to said lining means and to the toe portion of said upper, said stiffener having an integral turned-in bottom flange extending below said inner sole, and a binding strip stitched at one side edge to said upper adhesively secured at the opposite side edge to the sole assembly.

4. In a shoe, an upper having toe and heel portions, lining means in the toe and heel portions of said upper, a sole assembly including an inner sole, stitching securing the adjoining side margins of said inner sole and upper, and the adjoining toe and heel margins of said inner sole and lining means, stifiener elements between said lining means and upper, the lower marginal portions of said elements terminating beyond the lower edges of the upper and lining means and extending below said inner sole, a binding strip stitched to the lower edge of said upper and adhesively secured to the sole assembly.

5. In a shoe, an upper having toe and heel portions, lining means at the toe and heel portions of said upper, a sole assembly including a sole lining member and a mid-sole, stitching securing complementary margins of said upper lining portions and said sole lining member, stitching securing marginal portions of said upper extending between the toe and heel portions thereof to said sole lining member, stiffener elements between said upper and upper lining portions, said elements having in-turned bottom flanges underlying said sole lining, and a. binding strip stitched to said upper, extending about the edge of said mid-sole and adhesively secured to the bottom thereof.

ABRAM MOSKOWI'I'Z. WILLIAM S. MILIUS. 

